Nice and cosy on the countryside
- OK, No problem? José sticks his head into the kitchen to see if we need anything else during dinner.
The man in the house just got back from work and is relaxed with no shirt on and twinkles in his eyes. José is in his sixties and drives his taxi during daytime, while his wife Basita takes good care of us in their home. She's a colourful woman with red fuzzy hair and leopard patterned tops.
Just now we are enjoying a three-course dinner in their mint green kitchen, and Basita is an excellent cook. The dinner is delicious and the dessert of the day is caramel pudding with biscuits.
– Musica? Basita circulates her finger in the air to explain the word "record" to ask if we want to listen to some music.
Just minutes later she arrives with a CD player and scratched records that keeps on hitching, and the salsa music fills the room.
– No problema, she turns the volume up and makes us confident with one of her warm laughs. It's alright to play as loud as we want. The hospitality is honest and genuine and we are really enjoying our stay.
Horseback riding in the valley
An excursion in the valley is a must and we choose the horseback.
I'm a little nervous as I get up in the saddle and we are riding together through the forest, in what feels like, forever. I'm starting to get restless, wondering where to find all the mountains and tobacco fields. I ask my friend and the guide once again pushes the tired horses to go faster.
But all of a sudden the forest opens up and it's just as beautiful as I've imagined, with the green and lush tobacco fields and the unusual sugar-loaf mountains called Mogotes. If you don't want to go horseback riding there are other ways to explore the surroundings, rent a bike or join a guided tour. Another highlight in the area are the large caves where you go for guided walks and climbs. The rock formations sure are something special and you don't need to be an experienced climber to join.
Cigars and rum
The capital of the region, Piñar del Rio, is about 40 kilometres from Viñales. The city hasn't really got much to offer tourists, but both rum and cigars are manufactured here. Learn how the cigars are made by hand, placed in small tube shaped forms, sorted by shade and packed. A worker at the factory should roll about 135 normal sized cigars per day, and more means earning commission. Tourists are not allowed to take pictures inside the factory and there are no room for questions.
The visit at the rum factory is different, a multilingual guide is talking us through the process and we can taste the strong beverage. They usually make two different kinds in the factory and the guide explains that tourists normally appreciate the sweet one while the strong one is preferred among the locals. I will have to agree.
Sunset, salsa and mojitos
A nice evening starts at the hotel Los Jazmines where you have the perfect view of the valley and you can watch the sun set. The dinner is probably being served in your casa particular, before the night continues at the Casa Cultura with local salsa bands and a mojito in hand.
Fast facts Viñales
Stay: There are a few hotels in the area, Hotel Los Jazmines and Hotel Ermita are two of them. My recommendation is however, to rent a room with a Cuban family. Just ask for a Casa Particular and there will be plenty of choices. The price is about 15-20 CUC per double room and night.
Eat: There are not many restaurants to speak of in Viñales. But many Casa Particulars also have meal service at very reasonable prices.
Getting there: The drive takes about three hours along the highway from Havanna. You can either rent your own car or go by bus, Transtur and Viazul are the largest tourist coach companies on the route. If you rent a car you can choose to drive the longer, but prettier road along the coast instead.
Currency: Tourists visiting Cuba are using the currency CUC, Cuban Peso Convertible and 1 CUC is comparable with 1 Euro.
